Kościelec (The Polish Matterhorn)

Kościelec stands at 2,155 m above sea level. It is the “Polish Matterhorn”. Its sharp, pyramidal shape rises in the very centre of the Gąsienicowa Valley, dividing it into two parts. Thanks to this location, it is one of the best viewpoints in the Tatras - standing on the summit, you feel as if you were floating above a landscape of lakes.

It is a summit for ambitious hikers who want to experience real contact with the rock, without the help of artificial aids.

Trail description: a climb without chains

We start in Kuźnice, reaching the Murowaniec mountain hut (via Boczań or Jaworzynka). From there we head to Czarny Staw Gąsienicowy.

1. To Karb Pass: From the lake, we take the black trail (later green) steeply uphill to Karb Pass. Even here the views are stunning, and the pass itself is narrow and rocky.
2. Summit attack: From Karb to the summit, the black trail leads up. This is the key moment. The trail has no chains, clips or ladders. We overcome the technical difficulties by finding footholds and handholds in the rock (so-called three-point contact - use your hands!).
3. Exposure: The path winds between rock slabs above a drop. Although it is not a vertical wall, a fall could have very serious consequences.

View: the ruler of the lakes

The panorama from Kościelec is unique. Because the summit stands inside the valley, rather than on the main ridge, we see the lakes from above almost like on a map:

• Left: Czarny Staw Gąsienicowy (dark, dramatic).
• Right: Zielony Staw Gąsienicowy and Długi Staw (turquoise, shallower).
• Above: Orla Perć and Świnica.

Return option: a loop through the lake district

After descending from the summit to Karb Pass, do not return the same way past Czarny Staw! Descend the other side - via the blue trail above Zielony Staw. This route runs through scenic rock fields and shows the gentler, more grassy face of Hala Gąsienicowa. The trail leads you back to Murowaniec, closing a beautiful loop.

Warnings

• Slippery trap: The granite slabs on Kościelec turn into an ice rink after rain or in fog. With no chains there is nothing to hold on to if you slip. Going up Kościelec in the rain is asking for trouble.
• Crowds on the summit: The top is only a few square metres of rock. In season it can get very crowded, and without railings you need to be extremely careful when taking photos.