Szpiglasowy Wierch from Five Lakes

Szpiglasowy Wierch (2,172 m a.s.l.) conquered as a loop through the Valley of Five Lakes is one of the most beautiful, but also physically demanding trips in the Polish Tatras.

💡 In a nutshell – Szpiglasowy Wierch (loop) in a nutshell:

1. For whom: For hikers with iron fitness who are not afraid of a short section with chains.
2. Golden rule: Always go from the Five Lakes towards Morskie Oko! Climbing up the chains is much easier (and safer) than climbing down them.
3. Difficulties: Chains below Szpiglas Pass (from the D5S side). The descent to Morskie Oko is a comfortable stone path (Ceprostrada).
4. Distance: Prepare for over 24 km of walking and 10-11 hours in the mountains.

This variant is a “two-in-one”: you will see the two most famous Tatra valleys during a single outing, and along the way, you will tackle a short, exciting section with chains.

Trail description: The perfect loop (Chains up, comfort down)

The key to success on this route is the direction. We always recommend ascending from the Five Lakes side (where the chains are) and descending towards Morskie Oko (via the comfortable Ceprostrada). Climbing up the rock is much safer and psychologically easier than descending into the void.

Stage 1: Through Roztoka to Five Lakes

We start at Palenica Białczańska. We walk along the tarmac to Wodogrzmoty Mickiewicza and turn onto the green trail into the Roztoka Valley. After about 2.5 hours of walking, we arrive in the Valley of Five Lakes. This is the perfect place for a longer break and to replenish calories.

Stage 2: The approach to the wall and chains

From the hut, we set off along the yellow trail towards Szpiglas Pass. Initially, we walk comfortably among dwarf pines, but soon we stand below a steep, rocky wall.

• The section with chains: This is where the difficulties begin. The rocky chute is secured with a series of chains.
• It is not the level of Orla Perć, but it requires the use of hands, sure footing, and a head for heights. When the rock is wet, it gets very slippery and dangerous here!

Stage 3: The summit and a view of two worlds

After overcoming the chains, we stand on Szpiglas Pass, from where a 15-minute walk (without any difficulties) takes us to the summit of Szpiglasowy Wierch. The panorama from here is legendary: on one side you see the blue surfaces of the Five Lakes, and on the other the massive, dark “well” of Morskie Oko.

Stage 4: Descent via “Ceprostrada”

From the pass, we descend towards Morskie Oko via the famous “Ceprostrada” (yellow trail). It is a wide, comfortable path made of large boulders. There is not a single chain here, so you can give your head a rest (although your knees will still take a beating). From Morskie Oko, you still have 8 kilometres of tarmac back to Palenica Białczańska.

Warnings and logistics

• The distance is a monster: The whole loop is over 24 kilometres. With breaks for food and rest, this trip will take you about 10-11 hours.
• Storms: Szpiglas Pass is a very exposed place. If you see dark clouds, turn back, even if you are just below the chains.
• Winter: The yellow trail from the Five Lakes side is extremely avalanche-prone terrain. In winter, this route is exclusively for mountaineers with full gear.

Alternative: Without chains

If a fear of heights prevents you from tackling the chains, all is not lost! You can conquer the same summit by ascending and descending via the comfortable Ceprostrada from the Morskie Oko side. We have described this on the page: Szpiglasowy Wierch (via Ceprostrada).

Who this is absolutely NOT for?

Do not attempt this loop if it is your first trip to the Tatras. Do not bring people here who have already run out of strength during the approach to the Five Lakes (and that is just the beginning of the trip!). If the sight of a precipice paralyzes you and you have never held Tatra chains in your hands – choose the Ceprostrada variant. And remember: do not do this loop “against the current” (from Morskie Oko), because descending the steep chains to the Five Lakes is asking for trouble.