Ciemniak (Czerwone Wierchy - Red Peaks)

Ciemniak stands at (2,096 m above sea level). It is the first (or last) peak in the Czerwone Wierchy (Red Peaks) range. It is a mountain for those who enjoy endurance challenges. Technically, it is easy here (no chains, a wide path), but the cumulative ascent makes Ciemniak one of the toughest climbs in the Polish Tatra Mountains.

It is here, in autumn (late September and early October), that the mountain literally ‘blazes’. The slopes, covered in sit skucina, take on an intense rusty-red colour, contrasting with the blue of the sky and the grey of the rocks.

Route: “Red Loop”

We recommend doing a loop so you don’t have to return the same way. The best route: Up the Red Trail, down the Green Trail.

1. Stage 1: A strenuous ascent (Red Trail): We set off uphill from Kir. The trail gains altitude very quickly.

• We pass the Upłaz clearing and a distinctive rock known as Piec (it looks like the opening of a bread oven).
• The forest gives way to mountain pine, and the views of Giewont become increasingly expansive.
  • The climb to Chuda Przełączka is long and tiring, but it allows you to quickly ‘escape’ from the valley.

2. Stage 2: Summit and Ridge: The final ascent from Chuda Przełączka to Ciemniak is gentler.

• We emerge onto a broad, flat summit.
  • Panorama: Ciemniak offers a unique view into the heart of the Western Tatras. From here, you can see Starorobociański Wierch, Bystra and the Slovakian Dolina Tomanowa (Tomanová Valley) perfectly.

3. Stage 3: Descent via the ‘Wild West’ (Green Trail): From the summit, we don’t head back to Piec! We descend towards Ciemniacka Pass, and then down into Tomanowa Valley.

• This is Czerwone Żlebki – an incredibly picturesque spot.
  • The trail leads us down to the Dolina Tomanowa (Tomanowa Valley). It is one of the wildest places near Dolina Kościeliska (Kościeliska Valley). Silence, the murmur of the stream and… a good chance of spotting a deer (or seeing bear tracks).
  • Dolina Tomanowa (Tomanowa Valley) joins Dolina Kościeliska (Kościeliska Valley) at the mountain hut on Hala Ornak, from where we return along a wide path to Kiry.

Why is it worth it?

• Training: If you’re planning to climb Rysy, Ciemniak is an excellent training ground. If you can make it up here without getting out of breath, you’re ready for higher peaks.
• Safety: It’s an excellent 2,000-metre peak for those who are afraid of exposure. There are no precipices here like those on Giewont or Świnica. It’s wide and safe.

Practical information

• Water: There is no water anywhere along the ascent (from Kiry to the summit). On a sunny day, it’s like a ‘frying pan’. Take plenty of fluids with you.
• Fog: The flat summit of Ciemniak can be a trap in foggy conditions. It is easy to lose the trail and end up heading towards the steep cliffs of Krzesanica or over to the Slovakian side. Keep a close eye on the markings in fog!
• Loop direction: We recommend ascending via the red route (steeper, but quicker) and descending via the green route (easier on the knees, through a beautiful valley).