Ciemniak (Czerwone Wierchy - Red Peaks)

Ciemniak (2,096 m a.s.l.) is a massive peak that forms the western gateway to the Czerwone Wierchy massif. It is a mountain for those who like endurance challenges and want to test their fitness. Technically it is very easy here (no chains, a wide path), but the massive amount of elevation gain makes Ciemniak one of the biggest “sweat-inducers” in the Polish Tatras.

💡 In a nutshell – Ciemniak:

1. Loop from Kiry: The best variant is ascending via the red trail (steep) and descending via the green trail through Tomanowa Valley (easier on the knees).
2. No technical difficulties: There are no chains or precipices, but the elevation gain (over 1300 m) requires very good fitness.
3. No water on the trail: From Kiry to the summit (red trail) there is not a single water source. Bring at least 2-3 litres of water.
4. Beware of fog: The flat, grassy summit can be confusing in fog. It’s easy to lose the trail and wander into dangerous terrain.

It is here in autumn (late September and October) that the mountain literally “burns”. The slopes overgrown with the sit skucina plant take on an intensely rusty, red colour, contrasting with the blue of the sky and the grey of the rocks.

Trail description: The “Red Loop”

We strongly recommend doing a loop so as not to return the same, monotonous way. The best and safest direction for your knees is: Up the red trail, down the green.

Stage 1: A grinding approach (Red trail from Kiry)

We start in Kiry and immediately join the red trail, which mercilessly and very quickly gains altitude.

• We pass the Upłaz glade and a characteristic rock called the Piec (Oven - its shape resembles the opening of a traditional bread oven).
• With altitude, the forest gives way to dwarf pine, and behind our backs, ever wider views of the silhouette of Giewont open up.
• The approach to Chuda Przełączka is long, steep, and tiring, but it allows you to quickly “escape” the valley into the higher parts of the mountains.

Stage 2: The summit and a vast panorama

The final section from Chuda Przełączka to the summit of Ciemniak is a bit gentler. We emerge onto a wide, grassy, and flat summit.

• Panorama: Ciemniak offers a unique insight deep into the Western Tatras. You can perfectly see the massive Starorobociański Wierch, Bystrá, and the deep, Slovak Tomanová Valley from here.

Stage 3: Descent through the “Wild West” (Green trail)

From the summit, we do not return the same way! We head south, descending towards Ciemniacka Pass, and from there down into the Tomanowa Valley.

• We pass through Czerwone Żlebki (Red Gullies) – an extremely picturesque and photogenic place.
• The trail leads us down to the floor of the Tomanowa Valley. This is one of the wildest and quietest places near the crowded Kościeliska Valley. There is silence here, you can only hear the rushing stream. There is a good chance of meeting a deer here, and sometimes you can spot bear tracks.
• The Tomanowa Valley joins Kościeliska right next to the hut on Hala Ornak. From here, we only have a flat return along a wide road to Kiry.