Czerwone Wierchy (Red Peaks)

When are the Red Peaks red?

The rusty-red colour comes from rush grass (sit skucina in Polish) covering the ridges. It turns at the end of summer and in autumn, usually from the second half of September to mid-October, strongest after the first frosts. The timing changes every year, so check recent photos or webcams before you go. Autumn also means fewer storms than in July and August, but shorter days and cold wind on the open ridge.

Route: The classic traverse (Kiry → Kuźnice)

The most logical and rewarding option is the west-to-east crossing. We start in the Kościeliska Valley and finish in Kuźnice.

Stage 1: The gruelling climb to Ciemniak (approx. 3–4 h)

We start in Kiry (Kościeliska Valley) and immediately join the red trail. This is the most physically demanding part of the trip. The trail climbs steadily and relentlessly upwards, first through the forest, then among dwarf pines, until it finally emerges into open terrain. After 3-4 hours of pouring sweat, we stand on the first of the four peaks – Ciemniak (2,096 m a.s.l.). The worst is behind us!

Stage 2: The high-altitude promenade (approx. 2–2.5 h)

From Ciemniak, the reward for the spilled sweat begins. The trail follows a broad ridge, passing successive peaks. The terrain gently undulates, and the views are breathtaking – the sharp crags of the High Tatras on one side, and the distant Babia Góra on the other.

• Krzesanica (2,122 m a.s.l.): The highest point of the route. From the Polish side, it is flanked by a gigantic, 200-metre vertical wall (hence the name “krzesana”, meaning hewn). It makes a colossal impression, but do not get too close to the edge!
• Next, we pass Małołączniak (2,096 m a.s.l.) and reach the final peak – Kopa Kondracka (2,005 m a.s.l.).

Stage 3: Descent to Kuźnice (approx. 2–2.5 h)

From Kopa Kondracka, we descend to the pass below Kopa Kondracka, and from there follow the green trail downwards. Along the way, we pass the Hala Kondratowa mountain hut (perfect for a well-deserved dinner), from where a wide road through Kalatówki takes us to Kuźnice.

Difficulty: Fitness over technique

The trail to Czerwone Wierchy is technically easy. There are no chains, metal steps, or climbing (you will only find chains on the variant via Kobylarzowy Żleb, which bypasses this main ridge).

However, in terms of fitness, it is a real challenge:

• The total ascent is almost 1,400 metres – the same as climbing Rysy from Morskie Oko!
• The route is long and mostly exposed. On a sunny day, the heat increases fatigue, and there is not a single water source on the ridge.

Safety (Read this!)

Despite their gentle profile, the Czerwone Wierchy can be deadly dangerous:

• Fog (White darkness): In thick fog, finding your bearings on the broad, grassy domes is extremely difficult. Hikers often lose the trail here and unwittingly walk towards the cliffs (especially around Krzesanica). Remember: in fog, stick strictly to the trail and the directional poles! If you don’t have GPS, it’s better to turn back.
• Thunderstorms: The open ridge is a prime target for lightning. If a storm is brewing, descend immediately into any of the valleys. Don’t wait for it to “pass by”.

Other variants

Kiry → Kuźnice is not the only option. You can adapt the route to your strength:

• Reverse direction (From Kuźnice west): You start more gently via Hala Kondratowa, but finish with a very long, knee-jarring descent to Kiry.
• Shortcut from Gronik: You take the yellow trail up to Kopa Kondracka and Małołączniak, skipping Ciemniak. The route is shorter, but still has no chains.

Parking and logistics

Because the start and finish are in different places, logistics require buses:

• Start: Car park in Kiry (paid, full before 8:00 a.m. in high season). You buy your TPN ticket at the entrance to the Kościeliska Valley.
• Finish: Kuźnice. From here, you take a bus down to the centre of Zakopane, where you change to a return bus to Kiry (or to your accommodation).

Segment times

• Kiry – Ciemniak: 3–4 h
• Ciemniak – Krzesanica – Małołączniak – Kopa Kondracka: 2–2.5 h
• Kopa – Kuźnice: 2–2.5 h

8 h 27 min is just the walking time. With breaks, photos, and a meal at the hut, it turns into a full 10 hours. If storms are forecast for 14:00, and you are still drinking coffee in Kościelisko at 9:00 a.m., change your plan to a shorter trip, e.g., just Kopa Kondracka.

Who this is not for?

Technically easy does not mean short! This is not a trail for someone you have to “drag” through the first two kilometres. Do not go here in fog if you cannot navigate with GPS. Do not take small children here just to “tick off four 2,000-metre peaks for a photo”.