Dolina Kościeliska (The Kościeliska Valley)

The Kościeliska Valley is the second largest (after Chochołowska) and, in the opinion of many, the most beautiful valley in the Polish Tatra Mountains. It is a veritable museum of nature – here you will find vertical rock faces, a rushing stream, mysterious caves and vast glades.

Thanks to its paved surface and gentle gradient, the main trail is accessible to virtually everyone, including families with children in pushchairs. However, Kościeliska is not just a walk along the valley floor – it is a hub for trails leading to the Tatra Mountains’ greatest underground attractions.

Route (Valley Floor)

We set off from Kiry. The green trail follows a wide path alongside the Kościeliska Stream. The route offers stunning views, and its key features are the rock arches through which the stream flows:

1. Kantaka Gate – right at the start of the route.
2. Kraszewski Gate – in the middle section, beyond the Stare Kościeliska clearing.
3. Raptawicka Gate – in the upper part of the valley.

Along the way, we pass a bandit’s shrine and shepherds’ huts, where traditional sheep grazing takes place during the season (you can buy oscypek cheese!). The walk ends at Hala Ornak, where the beautiful, wooden PTTK mountain hut stands. From its terrace, there is a view of Kominiarski Wierch and Błyszcz.

Alternate routes and side attractions (For those interested)

This is where the real adventure begins. Trails leading to side attractions branch off from the main route (note: these significantly extend the duration of the trip!):

• Mroźna Cave: (Additional charge, one-way). The only electrically lit cave in the Polish Tatra Mountains. Requires approx. 40 mins’ ascent and descent.
• Jaskinia Mylna (Mylna Cave): (For the brave). Unlit, requires your own torch and crawling through mud. An incredible experience, but not for those with claustrophobia.
• Wąwóz Kraków (Kraków Gorge) and Smocza Jama: A short but very picturesque gorge reminiscent of the scenery from ‘Jurassic Park’. It ends with a climb up a ladder and chains into the cave (Smocza Jama) .
• Smreczyński Staw (Smreczyński Pond): A must-see once you reach the mountain hut. It’s just a 30-minute walk (along the black trail) one way, and the spot is magical, quiet and offers views of the high peaks of the Western Tatras.

Practical information

• Getting there and parking: There are plenty of pay-and-display car parks in Kiry. Minibuses run here from Zakopane every few minutes.
• Prams: You can easily push an all-terrain pram along the valley floor (to the mountain hut). Side trails (caves, Smreczyński Staw (Smreczyński Pond) and Wąwóz Kraków) are not accessible to pushchairs.
• Lighting: If you plan to enter Jaskinia Mylna (Mylna Cave), Raptawicka Cave or Smocza Jama – a head torch is compulsory. A torch on your phone is not sufficient.
• Horse-drawn transport: Horse-drawn carriages (fiakrs) operate in the valley, which can take you to Polana Pisana.
• Dogs: Dogs are not permitted (TPN ban).