Kościeliska Valley in winter – a walk to the frozen Smreczyński Pond

Horses and sleighs – my one rule

The most common mistake I see in this valley: a group walking shoulder to shoulder across the whole road. Horse-drawn carriages use that road – in winter, when there is snow, often sleighs – taking visitors to Polana Pisana. A horse with a sleigh on packed snow cannot stop on the spot, and the driver doesn’t always have room to swerve.

Keep to one side, leave the middle free and look back from time to time. Especially with children, who love running all over the road. Also: the ruts left by runners and hooves freeze quickly, so the middle of the road is often the slipperiest part.

If someone in your group can’t walk the whole way, a sleigh or carriage to Polana Pisana is a legitimate option. From there you still walk to the hut.

Microspikes: do you need them?

In my opinion – very welcome, and always in your backpack. There are no steep sections on the valley floor, but packed snow in the shade of the rocks turns to ice, and after a frosty night the whole road can be like glass. Microspikes weigh a few hundred grams and take a minute to put on, while one fall on your back can end your trip.

They are most useful on the black trail up to Smreczyński Pond and on the way back down – it’s narrow, in the forest and a bit steeper than the road.

Crampons and an ice axe are not needed on the valley floor. They are needed higher up: Ornak, Iwaniacka Pass or Czerwone Wierchy in winter are high-mountain, avalanche terrain. The difference between microspikes and crampons: crampons or microspikes – winter gear for the Tatras.

Smreczyński Pond in winter

Just before the hut on Hala Ornak, the black trail branches off to the left. About 30 min through the spruce forest and you are at the pond (1227 m). In winter it is frozen, under snow, with a view of the snowy ridges of the Western Tatras. For me, the most beautiful spot of the whole trip.

Two important things:

• Don’t walk on the ice. The pond lies in a strictly protected area, you must not leave the trail, and the ice on a Tatra pond is not a skating rink – you don’t know how thick it is in the middle.
• Return the same way. The black trail is a short spur – you go back down to the valley through the same forest.

From Kiry to the pond and back is about 13.5 km and about 4 h of walking. With breaks for photos and tea, plan for half a day.

What is closed in winter

As of 4 November 2026, according to the TPN trail bulletin:

• Mroźna Cave – closed from 1 November to 25 April (bats hibernate inside).
• PTTK hut on Hala Ornak – closed from 3 to 30 November 2026. If you go during that time, bring your own thermos and food. Before a December trip, check whether it has reopened.
• Kraków Gorge and Mylna Cave – separate side trips off the main road, with ladders, steep sections and tight passages. In winter they can be icy. If you are not sure about conditions, stay on the valley floor.

Closures and conditions change from week to week – always check the current TPN trail bulletin before you go.

Short days and the night-time ban

In winter the most common problem isn’t snow, it’s time. In December it gets dark around 15:30, and in the valley, between the rock walls, even earlier.

Until 30 November, walking on TPN trails is banned from dusk to dawn. From 1 December the ban applies from 22:00 to 5:00. Either way: start in the morning, plan to be back in Kiry before dark and carry a headlamp. Kiry to Smreczyński Pond and back takes about 4 h – start at 11 and you’ll be walking back in the dark.

Getting there and parking in Kiry

We came by our own car and left it at the paid car park in Kiry. On sunny weekends and over Christmas the car parks fill up in the morning, so aim to be there before 9.

Without a car it works too:

• minibus from Zakopane towards Kiry or Chochołowska Valley – they run often,
• taxi or Uber – handy if you come back after dark or travel as a group.

Details, prices and all trailhead car parks: parking, buses and getting to the trails in the Tatras. If you’re still choosing where to stay: Kościelisko or Zakopane.

Who this route is for in winter

Almost everyone: families, beginners and anyone who wants to see the winter Tatras without entering avalanche terrain. It is not a place for solitude – over Christmas and winter holidays the valley is full of people.

With small children, a sledge is often easier than a pushchair in winter, and you can’t take a pushchair up to Smreczyński Pond anyway. More family ideas: where to go in the Tatras in winter with kids. General rules for winter outings: the Tatras in winter – why your easy summer trail is now a trap.

Frequently asked questions

How long does Kościeliska Valley take in winter?

From Kiry to the Hala Ornak hut about 1.5 h, there and back about 3 h of walking (11 km). With Smreczyński Pond about 4 h (13.5 km). On snow and with breaks, allow more.

Do you need microspikes in Kościeliska Valley in winter?

Not always, but it’s worth having them in your backpack. The road is often icy in the shade and in the morning after a frost, and the climb to Smreczyński Pond is narrower and steeper.

Is the Hala Ornak hut open in winter?

In November 2026 it is closed (3–30 Nov, TPN bulletin). Outside that period it is usually open – check before you go.

Can you ride a sleigh through Kościeliska Valley in winter?

Horse-drawn carriages (in winter often sleighs) go as far as Polana Pisana. The last 25–30 min to the hut and the whole spur to Smreczyński Pond are on foot.

Can I bring my dog?

No. Dogs are not allowed in Kościeliska Valley, as on most TPN trails.

Is Mroźna Cave open in winter?

No. It is closed from 1 November to 25 April so as not to disturb hibernating bats.

Photos from our December walk: gallery – Kościeliska Valley and Smreczyński Pond.

What about you – Kościeliska Valley in winter or in autumn?