What to Do in Zakopane (and Around It) When the Weather Turns Bad

Let’s not kid ourselves - the weather in the Tatras can be nasty. You can plan your holiday for August and still get four straight days of water falling from the sky at 10 degrees Celsius. Heading into the higher parts of the mountains (for example to Giewont or Szpiglasowy Wierch) during a downpour is not “hardcore” - it is stupidity and an invitation to slip on wet rock.

But sitting in a guesthouse in front of the TV is also a poor option. Here is Plan B for a “Tatra monsoon”.

1. Valleys, valleys and more valleys

If there is no storm (no lightning and no strong wind), and it is “only” raining, the mountains are still open! You just need to switch your plans from vertical to horizontal. Put on a good rain poncho (the cheap “condoms” for 10 zł from a kiosk actually work best), and head to the bottoms of the valleys.

• Waterfalls come alive: In the rain, Siklawica Waterfall in Strążyska Valley or Wodogrzmoty Mickiewicza look ten times more powerful than in dry weather.
• The forest shelters you: In Kościeliska Valley or the Valley of Biały, trees and rocks catch a lot of the water. It gets misty, mysterious and… empty! No crowds at all.

2. Caves (It does not rain there anyway)

If you are going to get dirty anyway, then go underground! In Mylna Cave, the weather outside does not matter at all. The temperature is constant there anyway, at around 5 degrees Celsius. Just be careful with Raptawicka Cave - getting in via a wet ladder and chains can be slippery.

3. Thermal baths - the classic rescue option

It is the obvious choice, and that is exactly why it is so popular. When it is 12 degrees outside and pouring, sitting in an outdoor pool with 36-degree water is pure bliss. In the Podhale region, you can choose between:

• Chochołowskie Termy: The biggest, with a nice children’s area, but also the most crowded.
• Bania (Białka Tatrzańska): Great, with a view (if it were not for the clouds).
• Gorący Potok (Szaflary): A unique forest atmosphere and sulphur-rich water (it has a distinctive smell, but it is very healthy). Tip: On rainy days, the thermal baths are packed to the brim. Go there early in the morning!

4. Tatra National Park Nature Education Centre

This is a free attraction that hardly anyone knows about! It is located by the roundabout in Kuznice. It is a modern, interactive museum. You will learn about how the Tatras were formed, enter an artificial cave and watch excellent nature films. Children love it, and adults walk out with their mouths open after finding out, for example, how clever marmots are.

5. The Tatra Museum and Villa Oksza

If you are interested in the Zakopane style and in where the city’s whole phenomenon came from in the first place (and why the houses have these roofs and not others), the Main Building of the Tatra Museum on Krupowki is a must-see. A little culture never hurt anyone.

Rain is not the end of your holiday. It is just a sign to swap your shoes for rubber boots!